Khmer Wedding in Phnom Penh

Congratulations to Sem Bora and his lovely bride Srey Pich on getting hitched Khmer-style yesterday.

The resplendant bride and groom.

Last night I went to their big fat Cambodian wedding reception. That is if you would agree that 750 people is a BIG FAT reception. Phat!

This was not the first wedding I’ve attended in Cambodia, but it was the first here in the capital. I was invited by both my landlord Prom Touch, the father of the bride, but also by Sem Bora, the groom.

It was really one the nicest wedding receptions that I’ve ever been to. It was quite elegant, the people were all warm and gracious and the food was absolutely the best I’ve had in Cambodia – sublime. To top it all off the women were absolutely gorgeous in their makeup, fancy hairdos and colorful Khmer silk finery. Stunning!

Khmer weddings are traditional long affairs and even the key participants can’t quite explain all of the rituals and pomp.

My landlord is a successful businessman, exceptionally relaxed and just plain nice. His new son-in-law, who works for the national television network here – CTN – is equally friendly and accommodating.

First there is a day and a half of ritual ceremonies (giving this and taking that) and fantastic traditional Khmer music, all served-up beneath a red and white striped tent that is placed in front of the bride’s family home. Monks chant in Pali, the ancient Indian language that is only part of the remnants of the strong Indian influence on Khmer culture that dates back to over 1,000 years ago when the first temples of the vast Khmer Kingdom that then dominated southeast Asia were built near Angkor Wat.

In the morning before people head to their jobs, they file in en masse wearing their fine silk blouses, jackets and dresses and bearing bowls of fresh apples and other fresh fruity offerings.

The deliciously soulful Khmer traditional music played in this case by truly masterful journeyman musicians and singers helps create a mood that was both wonderfully transcendant and warm and homey. Of course food is served from dawn ‘til dusk, also by professionals who evidently know what they are doing. I’ve seen these wedding kitchens many times all over town with their oversized pots and well seasoned woks, but this was the first time I’ve lived next to one and had the chance to taste their product. From delicately seasoned soups to sensationally spicy fried whole fish it was some of the best food I’ve tasted in all of Cambodia… but the absolute best was yet to come.

On the second day things wind down in the early afternoon to give everyone a break before the big reception at a fancy banquet hall.

I arrived at about 4:45 in the afternoon. The invitation said 4:30, but Bora, still relaxing in casual pants and tee shirt, advised that it is just understood that event start times are based on the extremely flexible Cambodian notion of time. Specifically he said that 4:30 really meant 5:30 or 6:00. Now I know, but I’m glad I arrived early to watch as the whole glorious affair blossomed and unfolded.

The banquet hall was enormous, but didn't have that impersonal institutional feeling of lesser such venues and there were easily seventy-five tables fully set – each seating ten, a veritable sea upon which were swimming one hundred or more servers in gilded uniforms.

As guest began arriving the band started-up and it was kickoff time. Khmer women are beautiful, but when they dress up to look their best they just knock me out. Yow!

The ten course dinner that was promptly served as soon as a table was full was the best food I’ve had in Cambodia. I’m still in that nirvana-like state that you sometimes achieve from an exceptionally tasty and well orchestrated meal.

As best as I can recollect here is the menu:

Assorted appetizers; baby fried Vietnamese spring rolls, little egg cake things, the best dried fish (I never even imagined that dried fish could taste like this), fish cakes, some other stuff that was all exquisite.

Tom yam kung, a Thai-style soup with shrimp that is spicy, but delicately seasoned with.

A Cambodian kind of a cross between steak tartare and carpaccio.

A couple of large mackerel, cooked to perfection.

Vegetable salad

Large and nicely cooked tiger shrimp. Maybe they were baby lobsters?

A massive hot platter of the best mushrooms ever in life. No shit. They have these incredibly meaty, tasty and readily available for cheap-cheap-cheap mushrooms here in Cambodia. Maybe it’s the climate?

Some other dishes that I can’t even remember because I was lost in taste-space. Truly a memorable meal.

You still can’t quite get away from the Asian-style beer promotion and even at this large and classy affair the beer and ice-girls were toting large buckets brightly festooned with the Tiger Beer logo. Tiger would have you believe that it is the Heineken of Asian beers. It is nearly ubiquitous in southest Asia and that’s why I don’t understand why they think they need to promote their brand when, at an event such as this, it is the only beer being served anyway.

And there you have it. Sure there’s more; the manners, the politeness, the music, the very happy feelings, the kids, those irresistible Khmer smiles…

Comments

[Scott]

Wow. What an incredible wedding. Excuse the drool dripping down my chin from all of the delictable taste sensations that you described. And second that for the Cambodian ladies - they certainly are heavenly especially when dressed to impress.

When I was living in Vietnam a few years back the weddings were quite the opposite with regards to length. Every wedding that I went to lasted about 2 hours - max. The goal being, drink and eat as much as possible - as quick as you can, then once you can barely walk (let alone drive a moto) hop on your bike and split immediately.